The Original Dual Sport Motorcycle

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Lubrication Points
Here are the recommended lubrication points.
Depending on the use of your CT, you may want to grease the lubrication points, not including the drive chain, with a water resistant grease.
Drive Chain
Go to your motorcycle shop and get an aerosol can of each; A) chain cleaner and B) chain lubrication. Check that the aersol cans have the small tubes that attach to the spray head, so you can direct the spray only on the chain.
With your CT up on its center stand, put something heavy towards the front (secure it there, be safe!) to weigh down the front tire, lifting up the rear tire off the ground.
Rotate the rear wheel with your hand on the outside of the tire to move the drive chain slowly.
It is NOT recommended that you have the engine idling in 1st gear to move the chain, that is NOT safe.
Follow the instructions on the aersol cans of chain cleaner and chain lubrication, keeping your body parts away from the moving chain.
The drawing below shows the aerosol can being used without the small tube, however, the use of the small tube attached to the spray head, is desirable to concentrate the spray on the drive chain and not on other parts of your CT.
If the drive chain becomes extremely dirty, it should be removed and cleaned prior to lubrication.
  1. Remove the drive chain master link (do not bend or twist the master link "clip").
  2. Clean the drive chain with non-flamable or high flash point solvent, brush the drive chain and allow to dry completely.
  3. Inspect the drive chain for possible wear or damage.
  4. Replace any chain that is damaged or excessively worn.
  5. Inspect the sprocket teeth for excessive wear or damage.
  6. Reinstall the chain.
  7. Lubricate the drive chain (do not operate the engine).
  8. Adjust the drive chain free play.
  9. Rotate the rear wheel with your hand on the outside of the tire to move the drive chain slowly. It is NOT recommended that you have the engine idling in 1st gear to move the chain, that is NOT safe
  10. Ride you CT at low speed and in a light traffic area to confirm the correct operation of the drive chain.
Note: Never install a new drive chain on worn sprockets or worn drive chain on new sprockets. Both chain and sprockets must be in good condition or the new replacement chain or sprockets will wear rapidly.
Note: Gasoline or low flash point solvents are highly flamable and must not be used to clean the drive chain.
If you have replaced your drive chain with a newer designed, "o-ring" drive chain, follow the cleaning and lubrication directions for that type of chain.
Oil Specifications
The chart below shows the desired specifications of oil for operating temperature ranges.
Note: Synthetic oil is not needed in your CT and a few CT'ers report using it may cause issues with the auto clutch not having enough friction to operate correctly. No damage will be done, it just may not operate as designed (as in, you won't be moving). Conversely, others have reported no problems with synthetic oil. Most CT'ers say, for the price of a quart of synthetic oil you can have multiple quarts of regular oil and do more oil changes, more often, which many think is better.
Checking Oil Level
The technique for checking the oil level is shown below. Only check the oil level when your CT is on its center stand. using the side stand to check the oil level will produce a false LOW reading.
Important note: When checking the engine oil level, DO NOT screw the dip stick into the threads! Just place it in the hole, hold for a few seconds and then pull out. See the drawing above.
Engine Oil
The engine oil lubricates the engine, the transmission and the auto clutch assembly, which eases maintenance. Before draining the oil from the engine case, it is recommended that you operate the engine to get the oil hot. Hot oil will keep most small particles suspended and when you drain that hot oil, the small particles will exit the engine case, ensuring a cleaner engine case.
Oil change intervals can vary depending on the use of your CT. If it is only used on the street and never taken off road, then somewhere around 3,000 miles (just like your car or truck) is OK. If, however, you do a lot of off road riding, then many CT'ers change the oil every 500 miles. Or, if the CT is covered in dust after a really dirty ride, then change it! Oil is cheap insurance to make your CT engine last a long time.
Oil Drain Procedure
  1. Warm the engine to normal operating temperatures.
  2. Remove the drain plug (center of the bottom crank case).
  3. Drain the oil.
  4. Make sure the key is OFF (you don't want the engine to start up on the next step).
  5. Operate the kick starter pedal several times to drain all residual oil remaining in the crankcase.
Oil Filter & Oil Filter Chamber Cleaning
After draining the oil, it is recommended that you also clean the oil filter chamber and oil filter screen. These are inside the right side of the engine case. Remarkably not many CT's have had this proceedure completed. Don't be surprised if these areas look really dirty. Once you have done this the first time, you may only need to clean these items once every now and then.
To do this procedure, you will be removing the engine case right side cover. Tilting your CT to the left side, about 30-45 degrees from vertical (get something very stable to lean the CT against, be safe!) will keep some parts from falling out when you get the engine case right side cover off.

Remove the foot peg bracket and the kick starter pedal from its shaft.

If the original right side engine case bolts are present, you will need an impact wrench with a #3 Phillips head and a hammer to remove the bolts. Set the impact wrench to "loosen", turning COUNTER CLOCK WISE (anti-clock wise), when it is struck with the hammer. If you have a hard time removing the bolts you may even need to get an "easy-out" bolt remover. In either case, it is highly recommended that you obtain a replacement set of stainless steel hex head engine bolts (find them on eBay), as these are superior bolts (easier to remove with a hex wrench and won't ever rust). When replacing the engine case bolts, a very small amount of thread sealer on the bolt threads is recommended.

When removing the right side engine cover, resist using a screw driver or putty knife to seperate the right side cover from the engine case. Doing that may damage the right side cover gasket surface, the engine case gasket surface and/or the thin paper-like gasket. Instead use a rubber mallet or cover a regular hammer with a lot of soft material, like "shop rags" and then "lightly tap" the right side cover at the top and the bottom until the right side cover breaks loose.

If the paper-like gasket is damaged, you can clean the old gasket carefully off the engine case and right side cover and either make a new gasket by tracing the shape from the right side cover or buy a new gasket (from DrATV). When installing a new gasket, DO NOT use a gasket glue or sealer, just smear a small amount of grease on the gasket and put it in place (the grease will hold the gasket in place). This way the right side cover can be removed easily many times without damaging the gasket.

Once you have the right side case off;
  1. Remove the clutch outer cover.
  2. Clean the oil filter chamber with a clean lint free cloth (Do NOT use any liquids on the cloth).
  3. Remove the oil filter screen from its pocket.
  4. Wash the oil filter screen in non-flamable or high flash point solvent.
  5. Allow to the oil filter screen to dry completely.
  6. Reinstall the oil filter screen into its pocket.
  7. Reinstall the clutch outer cover.
  8. Attach the right side cover.
  9. Attach the kick starter pedal to its shaft.
Oil Refill Procedure
  1. Make sure that the sealing washer on the drain plug is in good condition.
  2. Reinstall the drain plug (center of the bottom crank case).
  3. Torque the drain plug to between 15 - 25 ft-lbs. (2.0 - 3.5 kg-m)
  4. Refill with new oil (Oil capacity = 0.9 liter - 0.95 U.S. quart - 0.80 Imperial quart).
  5. Check oil level.
  6. Warm the engine to normal operating temperatures, then turn off the engine.
  7. Recheck oil level.
  8. Watch for oil seepage under your CT, over time.
Air Cleaner Cleaning
It is also recommended that you check and clean the air cleaner. The image below is from a 1977, CT90, however, it pertains to newer years as well (1977 - 1986).
  1. Remove air cleaner components.
  2. Wash the air cleaner element in non-flamable or high flash point solvent and allow to dry completely.
  3. Soak the air cleaner element in gear oil (80 - 90 weight) and then squeeze out excess gear oil.
  4. Reinstall the air cleaner components.
Note: Gasoline or low flash point solvents are highly flamable and must not be used to clean the air cleaner element.
Your CT should now be ready for another few miles!
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